Digging RI

An unnamed mini phalaenopsis in Dirtynailz' collection. I counted 16 flowers on this one spike, and the plant blooms for at least a couple of months.

Ladies and gentlemen, please welcome HerbDoc to the  orchid club:

I was shopping at a local big box store this afternoon when I suddenly came upon a display of incredibly beautiful phalaenopsis orchids. The colors were dazzling and I couldn’t resist a deep purple and white beauty at under $10.

Another unnamed mini cultivar, noticed and snapped up at Trader Joe's. I love the creamy yellow centers on the flowers.

I’m taking Dirtynailz’ directions to heart and am marking the date to see how long I can get the plant to live! I’ll definitely ignore the printed “directions” as one section tells the buyer that they can’t go wrong by placing five ice cubes in the pot every five days. As Dirtynailz so aptly noted posts ago, how could a tropical plant ever want ice cubes on its roots?

Wish me and I hope I haven’t started a new obsession!

Editor’s note: You’re a goner now, HerbDoc!

The man in the above photo has adopted the default posture for anyone walking on a beach. Why are we so drawn to the things we see lying on the sand?I find beach combing very much like gardening. It’s sort of similar to my morning garden “inspections,” deadheading and pulling a weed here and there. Very relaxing.

The nearest beach to our house is an open ocean beach, sandy, but strewn with pebbles, especially in the winter. And they’re beautiful! I cannot tell you how many times I’ve come home with a few in my pockets, or I discover one in my pocket months after I stashed it. And I have little stones all over the house, on window sills and tables. Not all of them are of local provenance. I indulge my habit when I travel, too.

The other day, I found another heart-shaped pebble to add to my collection. How did my eye focus on it, with so many others in my field of vision? Maybe because it’s white.

Just another day at the beach.

Happy snap peas in Dirtynailz' garden last summer

Here’s HerbDoc with some timely thoughts on preparing the soil in your vegetable garden:

One of the most important factors in establishing a productive vegetable garden besides a sun drenched site is good soil.  About 12,000 acres in Rhode Island are covered with “Narragansett silt” which supports not only oaks, white pines and American beech trees but also the agricultural community’s growing of crops.

Before a gardener takes on the amendment of the soil, s/he should have a soil test done.  A quick, free pH test is available from March through October on Mondays through Thursdays (10 am to 1 pm) at the CE Center on the University of RI campus.  Call for additional information – 1-800-448-1011.  A more thorough test should be performed if a first time garden is being sited.  Such tests are available at UMASS or UCONN as well as extension offices at universities throughout the United States, and will include valuable information such as pH, mineral content and whether the soil is contaminated with lead or other heavy metals.  Following the recommendations will optimize a gardener’s crop production and will save money by minimizing inputs which are not needed.  For a soil test form, log onto http://www.umass.edu/soiltest.  A standard test will be sufficient for most gardeners.

Regardless of what amendments are recommended for the soil, my gardens get a yearly dose of compost either at the end of the harvest season or prior to planting in early spring.  When my compost was in limited supply, I added peat moss to existing areas.  Organic matter greatly improves the soil, and my goal is to allow about 50% of the total volume to be pore space.  This results in a loose, crumbly soil which allows the plants to sink deep roots and aids in the retention of air, water and nutrients vital for strong growth.

As I noted in a previous post, the addition of raised beds to the vegetable garden has been a boon!  The only areas receiving amendment now are the beds themselves and no tilling or heavy spading is required.  Overworking the soil can itself be detrimental since it breaks down soil texture.  Other positives I’ve noted:

• Beds can be put anywhere and over any type of ground;
• They drain well and don’t retain water;
• There is no compaction because I’m not walking on the beds;
• Beds warm up earlier in the spring.  They tend to be 8-13 degrees above ground level temps!
• There are few if any weeds!

Although raised beds may cost more initially in lumber and bringing in soil, the results are superior with a lost less work!  As an aside, I purchased several of my beds at Job Lot – a RI discount chain.  At $25 each, they were a true bargain and survived the winter very well.

Here’s some madness from our dear friend and tech wizard, Auntie Beak:

okay, you’re gonna all think i’m crazy, but this morning i looked at the 10-day forecast, and saw 40′s all the way, and only 3 of the next 10 nighttime lows below freezing, and i said to myself, “self,” i said, “you’ve seen colder APRILS than that. how much worse could it get between now and the middle of march?” so i grabbed a couple packages of pea seeds and a couple packages of spinach seeds, and went outside and planted them. in the ground. outside. in february.

you can all point and laugh when we get that late february blizzard. or i can be eating fresh spinach in march. time will tell…

(crossposted to my blog at auntiebeak.com)

For me, there’s nothing more rejuvenating than a long, brisk walk on a sunny afternoon. Gets the juices flowing, and the oxygen traveling to the brain. Blows out the cobwebs. You get the idea.

Nice, clean water

As the title of this post implies, it was low tide when I arrived at the water. It was very clear at the marina. No engine oil or other human generated crap this time of year.

As you can see, there wasn’t much water in the salt pond. See the water tower in the distance? Ospreys nest there every year. They’re usually back by early March.

When I got to the beach there were quite a few people and dogs enjoying the sun and sand. Two discarded Christmas trees had washed up, looking kind of like beached whales.

A couple was walking three happy yellow labs. It was funny watching them, because the people and the dogs were almost constantly tangled up together. The dogs didn’t seem to mind, though.

A gaggle of labs!

Three ducks were chilling in the marsh. The hunting season’s over, so they can land without having their heads blown off.

This swan paddled over quickly when he or she saw me. Swans normally live in pairs, so I don’t know whether this one was hungry or just lonely.

As I got back to our street, I saw my first dandelion. Spring is definitely on the way.

Phal. "Little Sunny"

This post is by special request. One of our most loyal readers has asked me to write about getting (or persuading) phalaenopsis, or moth orchids to re-bloom, and I am happy to oblige. Better late than never…..

My first “phal” was purchased at a local market, as so many of them are. I took it home and immediately began researching the species. But it was only after talking with experts at orchid shows and joining an orchid club where the members knew much more than I did that I actually began to “get” orchids.

I’ll cut right to the chase. Here’s the most important thing (in my humble opinion): find out where the orchid you bought grows in the wild. That way, you can have a better idea of how to grow it at home. The idea of buying something beautiful, something alive, and tossing it after it flowers is abhorrent to me. It is such a waste. Anyway, having a resting orchid gives you an excuse to buy more orchids, because that way you will have different plants blooming at different times. Yay!

Phal. "Yellow Butterfly"

Phalaenopsis Revealed

Back to phals. These orchids are epiphytes. They don’t live in the ground (although some other orchid species do). They attach to trees and hang there, absorbing moisture and nutrients from the air. That means the one surefire way to kill a phal is allowing its roots to stay wet so they rot. They must have good air movement (as there would be high on a tree branch) and cooler temperatures – 60s and 70s are fine.

If you look at your plant, you will  notice that there are two different kinds of roots: ones that go down into the potting medium and those other gnarly ones that sit on top. Those surface roots are covered in velamen, and when you water the plant with the sprayer in the sink (as you should) that velamen will turn green as it absorbs the water – something I enjoy watching.

A blue ribbon phal at an orchid show

Potting

Orchid people can debate the merits of various potting media for hours.  I just use what makes my plants happy. For phals, I buy a coarse potting medium that contains mostly bark. Again, remember that the roots like to have air circulation, and air travels through the medium. I buy my various potting media from Kelley’s Korner, (link below) but you can get yours wherever you wish. I do not like sphagnum moss for orchids and if I buy one that is planted in it, I repot the plant as soon as possible. I don’t find that sphagnum allows enough air circulation, and it’s hard to get the water to penetrate it  properly.

Here’s another very important tip: it’s important to allow new potting medium to soak in water for about a week BEFORE you use it, so it is properly saturated before you stick a plant in there. If you plant an orchid in new, dry medium, every time you water it, the medium will suck away all the moisture and your orchid will die of thirst. As for when to pot, my experience is that phals really don’t care if you re-pot them while they’re in bloom, although my gardener’s instincts tell me I should wait until the flowering is over. I don’t always, though, and the plants are fine.

To re-pot, remove the orchid from the old pot and examine the roots carefully. Cut off any that are black or shriveled. Phals need re-potting when their potting medium starts decomposing and turning into soil. Every couple of years should be good enough.

Put a bit of your saturated medium in the bottom of the pot. Use the same pot or one only very slightly larger. Hold the plant in the center of the pot, kind of suspended in the air, and dribble the medium around it until it surrounds the plant. Do not shove it down into the pot, or try to pack the roots in. The plant will be wobbly for a while, so be careful when you move it. Water it well with Superthrive to help stimulate root growth.

Mini phal "Timothy Christopher"

Water and Food

I water my phals thoroughly every week at the kitchen sink, spraying the medium for at least a minute, and then letting the excess water run out. Don’t let water accumulate in the plant’s crown, because it could cause rot. If some gets in, just stick the tip of a paper towel down there to get rid of most of it.

I also feed my phals, and all my other orchids. Here’s my routine: one week, plain water. The next week, Superthrive. The third week, plain water, and the fourth week, fertilizer. These days, I am using Michigan State University’s “Tap Water Special” which is available at orchid shows and at Kelley’s Korner, or you can find it elsewhere online.

Light

It’s important to provide your phalaenopsis with enough light. Mine sit in various windows throughout the house and do well in different exposures, although the southwest side can get a bit too toasty in the summer. Anything except shade is ok. Use common sense and move your orchid around until it seems happy. Pay attention. If the leaves wrinkle, it’s not getting enough water. If the leaves get yellow scorching on them, move it to a less sunny spot.

Large phals at an orchid show

Where to buy

I prefer buying my plants directly from the growers. That way I’m not paying a middleman  – or woman – and I get healthy “well grown” plants, as they say in the orchid world. They’re often cheaper than the ones in the big box stores, too. But feel free to succumb to temptation wherever you find it. Just make sure you are buying a healthy phal. Use your gardener’s eye and check for insects, dead foliage, wilting buds and flowers etc. These are all signs of severely stressed plants that might not recover when you bring them home. Please do not fall for those pathetic “Just Add Ice” orchids. A couple of ice cubes a week is not even remotely enough water for a phal, and they hate cold water besides. This is a dumb idea aimed at lazy people, which we gardeners are not.

Also remember that the phalaenopsis species is way more interesting than the typical white phal that the designers on television seem to be obsessed with. There are minis and spotted ones and a whole range of interesting colors.

Feel free to write me with your phal questions. If you pay attention to your plant and really try to be sensitive to its needs, it will reward you with re-blooming – the ultimate prize for orchid lovers everywhere.

Garter snakes are good for slug control

I received a catalog in the mail this week – another in the seemingly endless parade that arrives daily in our mailbox. I hate to think of the northern boreal forests being destroyed to create this unwanted junk mail – and make no mistake, they are. Anyway, before tossing it in the recycling box, I did take a minute to leaf through this one, called “Whatever Works,” and something hit me.

In addition to all the silly things that I couldn’t possibly ever need (such as a K-cup organizer) – HATE those expensive and wasteful coffee makers – there were six full pages dedicated to the eradication or repelling of any living creature that has  the misfortune to stumble into your house or yard.

Now I agree with getting rid of yucky house flies. Who wants those? But here’s a sample of the other things they sell:

• a mole trap that impales the creatures underground
• several things that scare away birds – I love birds!
• squirrel, dog and mole repellents

And here are a few samples of the ad copy:

“Solar-charged laser beam repels night predators:” accompanied by photos of a deer, a raccoon, a coyote and even an owl! Why would you want to get rid of owls?

Or how about this?

“Teach pesky squirrels to mind their own business with our harmless repellent.” I had no idea  squirrels were so nosy.

or this:

“Enjoy a pest-free yard year-round. Simply set the dial to the specific pest you want to repel and this cordless repeller rids your property of cats, dogs, skunks, rodents, deer and more.”

And there’s another weapon in the pest control arsenal: the infrared motion sensor! This one repels deer, raccoons, squirrels coyotes  — whatever you don’t want in your yard, it’ll take care of it, so rest easy, gardening friends.

Deer on our lawn a couple of summers ago

I know that we gardeners confront various pests and interlopers from time to time and that these animals, insects and reptiles can do some serious damage. But as we tend our little pieces of the earth, we are still part of the earth and as such, we have to be nice and share.

I don’t want to view my garden as a  kingdom under siege from hoards of barbarian invaders. I’d rather try and work with whatever’s around, and appreciate the most excellent pest control work done by owls and raccoons and coyotes, all of which do an outstanding job controlling rodents.

Maybe we should just learn to chill.

This was Dirtynailz' raised potato bed last summer. Nice flowers!

Here’s our good friend, Herbdoc, with some interesting veggie garden musings:

One of the best things I’ve ever done for my vegetable garden is to install raised beds.  Every year I would contemplate rotating the crops to prevent diseases and to stop depletion of the soil.  For the most part this was easy to do as most veggies enjoy the same range of pH in the range of 6.0 – 7.0.

As an aside most gardeners needn’t be too concerned about the exact pH of their soils if they fall within this range.  It isn’t exact number of the pH that is as important as it is the effect it has on the release of certain nutrients. Potatoes, however, are an exception and like the soil to be more acid (5.0 – 6.5), and my carrots always appreciate a good dose of sand to form better roots.

Last year I threw all caution to the wind and put in six fairly large raised beds and purchased several potato and carrot “bags” touted as the easier way to grow them.  The potato bags got their acid soil, and the carrot bags were amended with sand.

I had very good crops from each which were evenly spaced across the middle of the garden.  Various pots and boxes on three sides of the perimeter held a variety of culinary herbs and edible flowers while the back had the entire width covered with scarlet runner beans.

Each of the six beds was devoted to a vegetable:  tomatoes, pepper, eggplant, peppers, Swiss chard and lettuces.  All of the boxes also received a healthy dose of compost in addition to soil.  I mulched all of the areas with several layers of newspaper covered with chopped cedar mulch.

It’s my great pleasure to report that the plants grew extremely well with very little weeding and/or watering,  Clean up was also a breeze in the fall, and the garden is ready to go for 2012 with the addition of a bit more compost.

In this second part of her guest post on bird feeding, University of Rhode Island Master Gardener Program Coordinator, Rosanne Sherry, explains what we should plant to attract birds, and which plants we should stay away from. And yes, I, Dirtynailz, took the photos.

Birds like this female cardinal like branches they can perch on.

Appetizing choices

Along with the typical feeding station fare explained in Part One of this post, shrubs and trees in the home landscape will supplement the birds menu. Trees that furnish fall and winter berries include the dogwood, Sargent  crabapple, hawthorns, cherry, holly, red cedar, hackberry, mountain ash and mulberry. Blue, red and white spruce and white pine offer food and shelter.

Many native and cultivated shrubs will also attract birds during the fall and winter.  American cranberry (viburnum family), elderberry, blueberry, chokeberry, sumac, winterberry or holly family, cotoneaster, northern bayberry, blackberry, privet, rosa rugosa, snowberry and Amur honeysuckle are good choices. Evergreens like Japanese yews, pines, junipers and hemlocks give winter shelter. Vines such as Boston ivy and Virginia creeper supply fruit through the winter as well. Some plants may be difficult to find in retail nurseries.

A white breasted nuthatch

Problems in Paradise

Unfortunately, some plants commonly on bird landscaping lists are also considered exotic invasives that are crowding out native plants all across RI. Plants that should be controlled or eliminated from your yard include autumn and Russian olive, Japanese barberry, Norway maple, Tartarian honeysuckle, bittersweet and burning bush.

Japanese barberry and burning bush are crowding out endangered species in the woods of URI’s W. Alton Jones campus in West Greenwich. Bittersweet grows so rampant that in a few short years it can completely engulf a tree. Norway maples are crowding out the native red and swamp maples and shading lower story trees and shrubs. Plant police are already in evidence in states like Florida and California. They will actually fine a homeowner if certain invasive plants are found in the yard.

White-throated, song and house sparrows swarm a seed block.

The Canadian and Carolina Hemlocks, both native to New England, are suffering from an insect called the hemlock woolly adelgid. This critter has been attacking native stands of hemlocks from the Virginias northward. It is prevalent throughout RI. Ironically, birds are considered a prime carrier of the insect to the trees. Hemlocks are ideal bird plants. They provide food, nesting and cover for a wide range of migrant and resident birds throughout the year. Cardinals love their loose evergreen boughs to build their nests. I’ve had succeeding families of robins, catbirds, mockingbirds, cardinals, mourning doves and blue jays all in the same season in my old hedge. I removed the hedge. It was like killing an old friend. It did not have the adelgid, but it was severely stressed after several years and a good candidate for the adelgid.

But don’t let these problems deter you from attracting birds to your yard. Just be aware of them as you plan your gardens for the birds.

This rumpled fledgling mourning dove spent some time on the hood of our car.

Don’t forget to provide water for the birds all year round. Bird baths, small ponds and streams will keep birds nearby. Birds are one of the gardener’s best friends. Cultivate their friendship and you will be rewarded.

Bird Watching in Cyberspace

Bird watching rivals gardening as America’s #1 hobby. So, what does a computer savvy birdwatcher do when not out in the field? Go online looking for more information about birds. A short trip on the superhighway with some search engines, a birder can find a few good stops to share their birding experiences. The following is a brief list from a recent trip in cyberspace.

Websites

1. http://birder.com/

2. http://www.birds.cornell.edu/pfw/

3. http://www.virtualbirder.com/vbirder/

4. http://www.allaboutbirds.org

I think most gardeners have an interest in birds, and a great many of us feed them. I hope you enjoy this two part post on what to feed and what to plant for wild birds. It is written by my  friend  and University of Rhode Island Master Gardener program Coordinator, Rosanne Sherry. Rosanne also happens to be an avid and experienced birder, so I am thrilled that she found the time to write for my little blog. The photos were taken by moi – Dirtynailz.

Obviously not taken this snowless winter!

A fast growing winter pastime is wild bird feeding. Statistics from USFW Survey in 2006 show that 67 million people watch birds as recreation. US bird watchers spent over $45 billion (travel, bird feed, feeders and birding optics) on this activity during 2006.

It’s a relaxing hobby for young and old living in the city or in the country. Looking out a frosty window in January at colorful finches and perky chickadees at your own bird cafeteria is just plain fun. Any day could bring an unusual visitor. The most exciting visitor I had was a sparrow hawk the day after the Blizzard of ‘78. Stormy weather frequently blows in different birds.

Flying Pesticides

Birds have more than just an aesthetic purpose in the garden. Birds might also be called “winged pesticides”. Swallows and purple martins eat as many as 2,000 mosquitoes a day. Woodpeckers dig out over wintering insects and eggs. Orioles love caterpillars, flies and weevils. Nuthatches eat beetles, moths, caterpillars, ants and wasps. Some of these birds fly south with the first freezes of fall, but some remain. These birds are known as “residents”.

A female house finch on a squirrel proof feeder

What’s on the menu at the feeders?

Many backyard gardeners also feed birds in the winter. There’s a debate about whether feeding all year long makes the birds dependent on humans but I tend to follow the birds. I start up my feeding station in mid to late October. I thoroughly wash all the feeders with a bleach/water solution to prevent the spread of disease among the birds. I put out a variety of foods. The more diversity in the menu, the more species you’ll get.

I have suet. I like the cakes but look for a case of cakes that might average less than $1 a cake. I keep them in a cool spot in the basement and one or two cakes in the fridge. This will attract woodpeckers, chickadees, nuthatches and titmice especially.

A black capped chickadee digs in

Next is thistle, also known as nyjer. This is not the weedy thistle of the roadside. You do need a special feeder that has vertical slits so the birds have to carefully extract the seed. It’s a little expensive for a 5 or 8 pound bag but well worth it. I usually use about 10 pounds a season. Not every bird eats thistle but the winter finches, Purple, House and Goldfinches and redpolls definitely will be attracted. There are the sock feeders but frankly it’s a waste as hungry squirrels or other critters will quickly rip it apart. A tube feeder will last you many years. Make the investment in sturdy feeders like the Droll Yankee tube feeders.

A few years ago I read that goldfinches are late season nesters in our region and will readily come to thistle that is out in August when the chicks are fledging. So I started putting out just the thistle in August and now it brings them in every summer. Then as the season wanes they find my Echinacea that I let go to seed.

A house sparrow enjoying a mixed seed cake

Sunflower seeds are definitely a staple to the backyard feeding station. There are two kinds, striped and black oil. The latter actually has more fat in it thus making it actually more nutritious for the birds. Remember that birds need to add on fat in the fall and winter for migration and survival. The downside of sunflower seeds is they are messy. The birds pick out a seed and break it open dropping the hull and eating the kernel. The hulls have a somewhat allopathic quality as plants in the immediate area under the feeder may totally die off. It’s not a concern for me though as my feeders are placed on a small patio and in a small area in the garden. If the mess or the potential die off of plants worries you then look for the no-mess type of sunflower. No hulls!! They are simply the chipped up kernels. This bag however, will be the most expensive on the shelf. The discount stores rarely have this. I switch to this sometimes in June to encourage the birds to bring the kids to the feeders!! And keep the yard cleaner when guests visit.

Cardinals are favorite backyard visitors in RI. They love sunflower seed.

Corn is another staple in mixes as well as singly. Whole and cracked corn are available. I suggest the cracked corn for the birds and whole corn for squirrels and larger birds like turkey, jays or even quail in summer. I get a bag or two of cracked corn as it’s frequently the cheapest. I use it to stretch the other mixes and extra couple of weeks. I get 2-3 bags of corn cobs for the squirrels.

A male goldfinch in breeding plumage.

The mixed seed selections are a variety of seeds based on percentages of each. The more expensive mixes usually have a higher percentage of sunflowers. The cheapest seed mixes frequently have the worst seed!! Read the ingredient list carefully. If you see milo, wheat, oranges, canary seed, rape seed, sorghum or even rice in the list then avoid it at all costs. Nobody eats that stuff!! You are paying for junk. The seed you want to see listed is sunflower of either type, corn, peanut hearts, millet and maybe safflower. Thistle rarely is in these mixes because it’s so small and more expensive.

A few years ago I fell for a deal at a local feed and grain store $5.99 for a 20 pound bag of seed!! I should have read the label!! It was loaded with the junk!! I brought it to work and even the union birds wouldn’t eat it!!! I may pay about $14 dollars now for a 20# bag, but every seed is eaten by someone!! I keep track of how much seed I’m using every year. It varies, like this winter, but I was spending at least $300 each winter on the best seed from the top stores. But with the economy and seed (these are commodities on Wall Street) prices going in opposite directions I needed to find a better value. I now buy only Blue Seal seed and last year I bought more bags and cut my bird seed bill in half!! I get the thistle and suet cakes at Tractor Supply. Check local feed and grain stores for the Blue Seal brands. You won’t find it in the high end or discount stores.

Coming next: planting for birds.